Some surfers feel like the ocean is some kind of magnet that keeps pulling them back and that must be the case for Ron Greene. The 68-year-old San Diego man still rides his bike to the beach pretty much everyday while hauling his nine-foot-eight longboard with him to catch a few waves. Even after having four heart attacks while surfing over the last 14 years.
Greene suffered his most recent heart attack last December, collapsing on his board while competing in a surf contest. He actually drowned that day and had no pulse when lifeguards revived him on the beach. But he recovered and got back on a wave as soon as he was able.
"Maybe I'm an idiot. Maybe I'm a fool," Greene admits. "I just want to keep living and enjoying it. There is an immensely good feeling after surfing. ... I force myself to go out there sometimes just for the exercise and the feeling afterwards.”